Marrakech's medina is the walled old city, a maze of souks, spice heaps, hidden riads and the great Djemaa el-Fna square. It's dazzling, disorienting and a full-contact sensory experience.
The intelwhat we'd tell a friend
ReallyThe real deal
Wander early morning or late afternoon, when the light is soft and the crowds and heat are down; midday is gridlock. Expect to get lost, that's the point, and to be steered by 'helpful' guides toward shops; a polite firm no and confidence handle it. Haggle hard and cheerfully in the souks; the first price is theatre.
SafelyThe risk read
More overwhelming than dangerous, but it's peak hustle, faux guides, aggressive vendors, and darting scooters in lanes too narrow for them. Keep your bag zipped and in front, agree prices before anything, and don't follow strangers offering a 'special' workshop.
DeeplyThe culture
This is a living medieval city, not a bazaar built for you, so those are people's homes, mosques and workshops. Dress modestly, always ask before photographing people, and step aside for the handcarts and donkeys that still work these lanes.