The Deco and the sand are the real thing. The Ocean Drive scene is a trap.
South Beach is Miami's postcard — Art Deco pastels along Ocean Drive, neon and a wide Atlantic beach. The architecture and the sand are the real thing; the Ocean Drive scene is a trap.
Yes at sunrise for the Deco and the sand — just skip the Ocean Drive restaurant scene.
Yes — it's free to enter.
Walk it at sunrise, when the light hits the Deco facades and the beach is empty — that's the beautiful South Beach.